DES MOINES, Iowa — When Jesse’s Embers started serving food in 1963, it was all about change.

It had been a “key club” in the days before it was legal to serve alcohol in a restaurant. Patrons brought in their own liquor, Embers sold them the tonic or soda mixer, and then the drink could be enjoyed inside.

When the law changed, owner Jesse Roush jumped at the chance, and turned the Embers into a full-service restaurant. Customers loved his food, but they also loved the suddenly-mixer-free libations he could put on the menu.

Among the favorites was the “Silver Bullet.”

“Double shot of vodka, on the rocks, with a lemon twist,” Roush told WHO 13 in 2013, “and I had seven bar stools and 15 tables in this restaurant and I had to have two bartenders at noon to keep up.”

Sixty-two years later, the place is ready for more change. Owners Marty Scarpino and Deena Edelstein, who took over for Roush, have decided it’s their time to step aside, too. The life of a restaurant owner is never easy, but the past five years have been especially tough, here.

“The pandemic was really rough,” Edelstein says. “We lost our whole lunchtime staff.”

While lunches still haven’t returned, a far bigger blow came last December when beloved cook, Lanny Sharpe, died of a sudden heart attack at 58. Known to laugh and talk with diners as he worked, Sharpe enjoyed a sort of celebrity status in the restaurant. But it was Sharpe’s ability to single-handedly work the Ember’s iconic grill that made him invaluable to his bosses.

“He would have probably 20 steaks on that grill and he knew how every single one needed to be cooked,” Edelstein says. “And he did it all by himself.”

“He didn’t want any help,” Scarpino adds. “He knew what order went on what plate, and he always showed up for work.”

Sharpe’s loss took the wind out of place.

“He died on a Thursday and we just closed,” Scarpino says. “We didn’t open back up until the following Wednesday.”

Scarpino and Edelstein agree that Sharpe’s death made them realize it was time for a change.

“We’re tired,” she says. “Marty’s tired, I’m tired. It’s time for us to step away and enjoy life.”

When they listed Jesse’s Embers for sale in January, it sent shockwaves through the Des Moines restaurant scene. One of those waves reached 28-year-old Carter Annett.

“My dad was at a Drake basketball game when he heard the news,” says Annett, who’s worked in the restaurant business since his youth. “I couldn’t believe it. It’s been a long time since a place like this has been for sale. It just felt stupid not to jump at the chance.”

Despite his age, Annett appealed to Scarpino and Edelstein.

“We wanted someone young who wanted to be here every day,” says Edelstein. “We didn’t want someone who was going to just hire a manager. We liked Carter right away.”

“I told him if he wanted to run this place, he needed to wear a tie,” Scarpino adds with a wink. “He said ‘I’ve never worn a tie at work.’ And I told him ‘Well, you want to work down here, you need to wear a tie.’ So he’s gonna wear a tie and greet people.”

Edelstein says they also wanted the new owner to preserve the menu and décor. Once again, Annett said all the right things.

“As far as the menu goes, nothing’s changing,” he says, “I’m not changing any of the vendors, either. The food stays the same. I don’t want to make people who’ve been coming here for 40 years mad. It’d be a sin.”

Outside the food, there will be a few changes.

“Internet is coming,” Annett laughs. “And we’re going to add an operating system so it’ll be like computers and terminals and two or three hand-helds. Just easier for the customer to do, easier for my people here.”

Annett says he also plans to bring back lunch service at some point soon.

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